Painting 3aj engine covers

[Peen]

Now then,

I'm wanting to tidy up the engine side cases on my 3aj, the paint is a bit flakey after 30 years, despite not moving at all in that time. Will being trying to keep it looking the original satin black

Is there any advice on what paint can be used? Any particular brands?

Will standard spray paint for the likes of halfords stand up to the heat?

Something petrol resistant would be nice.

Thanks

Peen

[Mezo]

I used VHT engine enamel (satin black) but thats here in OZ, i forget what Geoff uses over in blighty? the same or similar.



Mezo.

[Peen]

Thanks Mezo

I see, the only experience of VHT paint has been the matt black stuff ive used on exhausts which seems to fall off as easily as it goes on.
Although, thats been the Halfrauds stuff which wasnt the best quality I imagine.

I'll look into better brands of high temp paint, unless anyone has any suggestions for the UK

Since the side cases dont get quite as hot, I wondered if more regular paint might do, or something like brake caliper paint, which might be more resistant to petrol and getting a little warm.

[Mezo]

We talked about it years ago HERE. or search (top right) VHT.

But basically you can buy it on ebay (page down to get the VHT brand & ignore stuff that just says VHT on the tin) you want the brand VHT.

Mezo.

[Peen]

Now then,

I got myself some of the VHT branded engine enamel in satin black, identical tin as shown above.

Thought I'd test it out on an old clutch case I had and a few other bits and pieces, glad I did. I found it comes out really thin and runs really badly, it also doesnt seem to have much 'black' in it. doing a few light coats, as per the tin, I can see through the paint to the metal still. If I put it on any thicker, it runs really badly, pulling the paint down and showing the bare metal on anything sat vertically. Its like there is too much thinner or whatever they use in paint from a spray can. I sanded the area down with 240 grit paper to bare metal, which I would have thought would be rough enough, was properly clean and did as the tin said, but it came out terribly. The picture below is after two or three coats.

Ive never had a paint from a tin come out like this.

Anyone have experience with this paint, am I doing something wrong?
Does it really need primer? Even on the flat areas where it didnt run, you can just about see through it.
Feel like im missing something stupid here.



Thanks

Peen

[Peen]

Oh, and ignore the bits of paint that have reacted badly in the pic, I didnt sand it down the whole thing, just a test patch.

[charliext1vj]

It is a thin paint but you can load more by having the part to paint quite warm and I assume your air temp is room temperature?

[Mezo]

This is from VHT website, i didn't bother with primer myself & it was warm when i painted mine, i just gave it a second coat.
Your temperature where you are is to low to paint (i checked) so that could be an issue, you could bake the part in the oven as well for longevity (as it says).

A finish coat is only as good as the surface it is coating. We are frequently asked if VHT Engine Enamels can be painted over a primer or other old paint on the engine. To obtain the best results we recommend the parts be stripped clean of any old paint or primer. Wipe down the surface to be painted with grease and wax remover and prep with either Shellite or brake cleaner. For maximum adhesion and colour consistency we recommend applying VHT Engine Primer (SP148).

If the old paint is intact, remove any dirt, rust, grease, loose paint, etc and lightly sand to a dull finish. Wipe down the surface with grease and wax remover then prep with either Shellite or brake cleaner.

The topcoat is only as good as the base coat or condition of the metal. If the substrate gives way, the topcoat will follow.

Paint the Surface: Do not use in temperatures of less than 21°C on parts that are less than room temperature. Apply VHT engine coatings directly to the surface to be painted. Apply a smooth even coat and lightly sand for a primer coat or spot prime. Hold can 12 to 15 inches away from surface and spray in one direction using long even strokes. Repeat the process in the opposite direction. Apply coats 10 minutes apart and all coats within 1 hour. Excessive coating build-up is not necessary or recommended and will cause blistering and loss of adhesion. Apply only enough coating to colour surface evenly. If touch-up or recoating is required, wait 7 days.

VHT Engine Enamel only attains its unique properties after correct curing.

Curing: VHT Engine Coatings will air dry in one hour. Baking for 20 minutes at 93°C improves finish and provides a more durable surface for handling, resistance to salt-spray, chemicals and humidity. Curing may be accomplished by the inherent heat of operation, as encountered in engines, exhaust systems or by baking in an oven, infra-red, blow torch, etc. Starting the engine and running at idle for 15 minutes and letting cool can also cure VHT Engine Coatings. Restart the engine and run for no more than one hour and again let cool. If the engine is operating normally, this will bake on the finish. All curing must be done slowly.


Mezo.

[Peen]

Hmm,

Thinks its a case of try harder next time.

I heated the part and the paint as best I could, but I would have a hard time explaining to the girlfriend why the house stinks of paint, so had to do it outside, and yes, its was a tad chilly. Seemed to go on funny still, never had spray paint be so thin and run so bad, even in the cold.

Might have to take it to work to paint indoors and crank up the radiators, conveniently have a big sample drying oven too.

Did you take all the old paint off before painting, or just sand it down smooth enough?

Thanks again.

Peen

[Mezo]

Did you take all the old paint off before painting, or just sand it down smooth enough?

I just rubbed it down smooth enough, nothing to anal.

You are shaking the can properly right, at least two or three minutes minimum, and have the tin nice & warm.

Mezo.