Re: 34L001324 Restoration has started!

[55W1985]

Sven.......speachless!!!!!!! Your work is going as expected to do a "allmost"" new bike
I think your seat is the swedish version.It looks like a one man seat.If you look under the hot links
http://members.iinet.net.au/~mezo/tener ... umbers.pdf
search F-5.As indicated by yamaha there they where localy made! (LM)
Even your indicators holder is not the german model.I can say you own a swedish bike?.
Sven i am sitting on the first row watching

[Fred333]

Hi Sven, Hi Karl,
how does the german indicatorholder look like? Have you got a picture? I got the same as Sven. But we already find out mine 34L isn´t a german model.
And Sven, what is that strange part which hangs in the middle of the five black sprayed parts? ( on the yellow rod)

By the way Karl I missed the partscatalog by 50 cents... :-( Sometimes I´m like a scotsman)
Oliver

[Jimmie]

That looks like a caliper mount/slider. The part that bolts to the fork leg, I'm not really sure what the name is.

[55W1985]

Hi Sven, Hi Karl,
how does the german indicatorholder look like? Have you got a picture? I got the same as Sven. But we already find out mine 34L isn´t a german model.
And Sven, what is that strange part which hangs in the middle of the five black sprayed parts? ( on the yellow rod)

By the way Karl I missed the partscatalog by 50 cents... :-( Sometimes I´m like a scotsman)
Oliver

Fred
Look in the PDF file F6 part 34L-83368-00 is the holder you have now.
The standart 34L/50T uses: E9 parts 15A-83368-00 and 15A-83369-00

[Aussiesven]

A Swedish XT 600... I doubt it as I have the original papers and the first owner was also German... but would fit my name well: "Sven, with his Swedish Tenere..!?" - doh!!

Does any one have lists that show what model number was made when and where? As in the header... mine is 34L001324, so it should be a pretty early bike.

Oliver, the middle part is the second half of the front break caliper. Just reconsidering stripping and painting it again as I didn't use high temperature spray paint... may become an issue and it is easier do redo it now than later when it starts peeling off when the caliper gets hot.

[Mezo]

Does any one have lists that show what model number was made when and where? As in the header... mine is 34L001324, so it should be a pretty early bike.

Not as early as you may think Sven, i have the following numbers.

217, 241, 610, 883

Although my prefix is 39E (South Africa, Australia & NZ) and im not sure of the numbers that were made 34L V`s 39E

Mezo.

[Aussiesven]

Well, a little bit further every weekend... as mentioned in my last post: The head and barrel came back successful from the workshops... no new valves needed and the honing was sufficient to get the worst of the flood rust off on the liner - so all I need is a new set of rings. Does a "10" marking on the piston mean the piston is 1mm larger than the original? Is that the 1st oversize or else?

Here a few photos of the head and barrel... looks nice in bare metal, too, but has to be painted to remain original.







The larger rust marks are below the ring line, so should not have any effect on reliability or else... I was told anyway...





Started painting the lids with VHT high temp paint... not sure whether I am 100% happy yet, for Satin it seems quite a flat finish. Maybe after curing it will look a bit better? Will see. Has been very wet and humid today, not the best spray weather, but that's Brisbane... either too muggy or too nice to be in the garage.





Also started on the head light mask... it has a few holes from where I used to have an oil temperature meter attached, plus a few cracks and wear marks from previous mishaps. So a bit of car putty will do to fill those and make it neat again. The only annoying thing is the black decal... after 28 years it doesn't want to come off - fancy that! If anyone has a good trick up their sleeve how to remove the pesky thing: let me know. Otherwise I just spray over it as it will give me a reference line as to where the new decal / black area needs to be.



No further on the tank yet... don't have a vessel large enough to submerge it in caustic like Action Man suggested and the wheelbarrow leaks...

Follow on question about respoking the wheels:
Action man, you stated that the offset is 0.00mm. Is that off the hub only, or do I have to also take the break shoe plate and the sprocket carrier and all the spacers into account? Or doesn't it matter as both sides are adding up to the same reference point anyway (i.e. are the same distance from the hub on each side?)

I guess, same question for the front wheel - off the hub only, or do I take all the spacers and tacho gear unit into account to find dead centre?

Appreciate any help as I want to start on the wheels soon...

[Eric66]

All looks good Sven, the satin is only slightly glossier then matt black but looks better then gloss black. Glad to see you having a go at everything, it's the only way to learn and much more enjoyable! Remember don't be afraid to ask for help.
Regards Eric

[Aussiesven]

Eric, you must have jinxed it... started spraying yesterday and this morning the VHT paint on the clutch lid started peeling off... it has not adhered to the lid at all... so: HELP!

I used paint stripper to get the old paint off, sanded the remainder and degreased the lid and sprayed it with fast evaporating brake cleaner right before painting to ensure there is no lint and grease on the lid. Sprayed twice within 15-20 minutes and then within 10 minutes again the third layer.





The weather was terribly humid: rain, 28 degrees, so maybe that was the issue? The paint on the valve lid and the stator lid has adhered better, but is still easy to scratch off with a finger nail. I baked those two parts as per instruction on the can at 100 degrees in the oven for an hour... and will let it sit for a week, but am not confident that it has adhered sufficiently.

Anyone any ideas what I did wrong? Or is the VHT pain rubbish? Should I use a primer? Am pi*^%sed off abit - hate doing work twice... HELP.

The head lamp mask looks better so far. The putty filled the holes well, welded up a crack with the Dremel (didn't expect it would 'weld' it using a grinding disk.. - good trick). Some guide coat showed up some more areas to putty... but will look great once painted and I didn't have to buy a new one. Picture a bit fuzzy...



So, if someone could help with the engine paint issue and my respoking question from yesterday... would be much appreciated!

Sven

[Eric66]

Hi Sven, I painted everything with etch primer, it creates a nice base that really sticks. Then just sprayed over that a few days later, don't rub back the etch coat though, just straight over it. Before the etch coat I clean it with wax and grease remover and a clean rag, give it about 10 mins before spraying the etch.
Regards Eric