Mods and upgrades for a 55W

[Strobeck]

Hello!

I've got a 55W that I would like to mod / upgrade a bit. Which suspension would you guys go for and also are there any other mods/upgrades I should do? I've got some mechanical knowledge but pretty new to bikes so all tips and tricks would be helpful! Would like to do stuff like Sandraiders etc in the future.

Thanks,
Strobeck

[donnybach]

A few choices for suspension, probably more but the norm and a fair price would be the wilburs or yss, readily available from brooks suspension if you’re in uk.
The later (87 on) output shaft with the sprocket nut if you are going into the casing.

[Strobeck]

Will definitely check out those suspension brands as a start, thanks! I'm in Sweden so will probably have to order. Is Kedo.com the best site for this stuff?

Also looking for a new seat cover but can't find it anywhere so if anyone happen to know where to get one I'd be super happy!

[j0epere]

Hi Strobeck,

I was just on the same path as you and could't find any cheaper options in EU, KEDO had the best price for both front springs and rear shock, it came to 500EUR total, including shipping.

Installation was very straight forward, only the rear shock required some extra work(removing the rear wheel, tank and airbox) My 1VJ has a different type air intake system so not sure how much effort it will be for 55W.

Performance wise it totally changed the handling of the bike. The bike sits now higher (you can change the length of the YSS shock, it came a little longer, than OEM, make sure to make it shorter if you're vertically challenged) and the handling has radically changed. Can highly reccomend.

[donnybach]

J0epere, which springs did you fit, are they progressive? I’m looking for the same results but not sure if progressive is just snake oil or really works. I’m 6’2” and 95kg, so would you recommend yours? I was looking at a yss rear.
Strobeck, nice bike, let’s see some pics.

[j0epere]

Yes for the front I got the Wirth progressive springs(just because Kedo didn't have YSS springs for 1VJ). It was alot harder to close the fork caps due to the stiffness of the springs, once installed, pushing the first few centimeters felt almost the same as on stock springs, just slightly harder, but the more you go, well get's progressively harder. Also will mention that after adding the springs I didn't add any air to the tubes, likely would get it even stiffer. Riding however you can feel the difference, it will take larges bumps in perfectly and you don't need to worry about bottoming out. Also heavy braking is much more pleasant, doesn't dive in as much.

Rear shock I also got the YSS, at first it felt just as soft, but when preloading it properly it finally got properly stiff. I can feel the change in height really well, as a 5'10" I can't put both feet on the ground flat anymore. Previously you could feel the bike sag even under it's own weight quite bad, when I sat on it, the rear end was comically low.

Overall would reccomend changing both, will handle like a new bike and gives plenty of confidence when riding off-road. I have about 1KM of technical offroad track going to work every day and I'm starting to scare myself in the past few days..

[donnybach]

Thanks. I reckon I’ll go the same route then. As you said, it’s the sag when getting on and the braking dive which are terrible now. 38 years of work for the springs. And we’re all heavier now.

[edwardbgill]

Hi there,

I've a 34L with a 4PT motor, which I've used extensively in recent years as a off-road travel bike in Europe, Caucasus countries, Morocco and Algeria - all of which is to say its been put through the mill!

Agree on suspension - I changed my shock to a Wilbers, which has been good.

A few other things to consider, depending on how hard a life your bike may or may not have:
- Check for play where the sidestand connects to the chassis. Reinforce if need be.
- Worth upgrading spokes/investing in wheel rebuilds.
- I'm just in the process of upgrading the rear swing arm to a later 2KF model, to accommodate a different rear wheel that allows me to replace the drum brake with a disc brake. Reason being that for any heavy breaking using the rear (e.g. desert riding) can lead to heat transfer via the rear drum. If the hub where the bearing sits is even slightly/barely noticeably worn (due to 40 years of bearings being changed...), this can cause the bearing to loosen in its housing and wear the hub further still. I found this after going through no less than 3 x 34L rear wheel hubs (!).
- Alternatively, keep the 34L rear hub and find a good machine shop to CNC you a sleeve to go in there. Recommend doing this before you need to.
- Given the age of bike, the lower frame near the footpegs can be a weak point for corrosion as this is where gunk gathers and settles. Check to make sure the drain holes are open.

Hope this helps,

Ed