Regarding stiff fuel taps... I have found that the nylon cone swells with age and pushes back against the tap lever.
Try this... undo the 2 very small screws at the front of the tap about 2 turns. If the tap is now easy to operate then remove the cone and remove about 1mm of material from the back of the large diameter of the nylon cone. Reassemble with a little grease and test.
Should turn nice and easy.
BTW new taps from Partzilla are around US$22 each.
"Don't worry," he said, "things could be worse ........."
So I stopped worrying and lo and behold, things did get worse!
Well just an update. I have sourced another engine, a 3TB (1995) which I drove down to Melbourne last weekend to pickup. The previous owner had the top end overhauled with a Wiseco piston but it has not been started since. The motor was missing a stator coil but I have a cheap one on its way from China and I picked up a secondhand TCI & spark coil from eBay (I have to replace the old CDI which involves a bit of rewiring ). I have sent a PM to Actionman asking about his kickstart mod as I think I may as well move that over to the new motor also, not sure about the decompression bits though.
I'm cleaning up the swingarm and linkage bearings and I think I might get rid of the cup on the inside of the RHS main pivot in the swingarm and just run a second seal and matching pivot bushes like the the later bikes do so that a bearing kit from places like All-Balls will fit in without left overs and additional OEM parts. I do have an issue with the bushes in the rear of the cases where a bit of wear has made it impossible to achieve the correct clearance in the swingarm without either replacing the casing bushes or shimming the inner pivot bushes. Has anyone replaced the bushes in the cases and can it be done without splitting the cases?
I'll be so glad to get my Tenere back on the road again.
All the decomp part can be transferred over to the 3TB motor . There is a few parts inside the clutch cover and up in the head , holes are all there in the 3TB but no parts installed. Another option is to run a cable from a handlebar mounted decomp lever (Honda and Suzuki has them) then put the parts in the head and hook the cable to it for a manual version instead of the auto operated setup. I much prefer the auto .
Yes I think I will keep the auto feature. The only part I can't seem to bufge is the post that holds the end of the spring, it is a splined shaft which is driven into the a hole in the cases. I might buy a new one if they are still available.
I had another look at the bushes in the rear of the cases and they are stped so can't be removed without splitting the cases. That can wait for another time. I have some shims so I will work something out.
Dave
I think they are cast into the cases anyways , never seen them replaced or messed with . If everything is correct they should never get wear , the pivot bolt tightens all the endcaps and inner bearing shafts so nothing rubs . The bearings in the swingarm hubs and thrust washers inside the endcaps are what handles all movement .
Anti seize the piss out of everything to keep corrosion away and great wear resistance.
I think the swingarm bolt must have been loose on that bike for some time as there is a ring worn into the case bushes by the pivot bushes. I checked with the dealer and they are available but you have to split the cases to fit them.
All the best, Dave
I see they do sell 2 bushings inside the hole , never paid attention to them , I usually just looked at the outer part but it makes sense , but yep it takes case splitting. I'd just tighten that pivot bolt real good and move on until the motor needs to be rebuilt. Maybe find another pivot bolt that's not been worn from the same reason those bushings are worn to close up the clearance a little bit if you haven't already .
Well I bit the bullet and removed those worn bushes on the rear of the cases. The way that worked for me was to turn up an expanding Mandrell to grip the inner diameter then they just came out with a bit of a tap with a drift.
