Okay, confused here. Temperamental neutral light. As I've got the oil out whilst doing other things, I removed the neutral switch.
Thought I'd test continuity. I get continuity whether the push button on the switch is in or out.... So., I order a switch; just turned up.
Check new switch.... complete circuit whether button in or out!
Okay, maybe it works on a resistance value.... nope.
What the heck!?
I'll fit the new switch anyway. One thing I haven't tested is with 12 volts, maybe that's the test, because on my Airhead when doing timing, you get continuity whether points are closed or open, but when voltage applied, you get 12 volts or zero volts dependant on points being open or closed.
Is this it with the neutral switch?
Cheers
John
Neutral switch confusion
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Windmill John
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steveloomis
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Re: Neutral switch confusion
Neutral switch is just a switch to ground (earth) when in neutral.
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ActionManMelb
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Re: Neutral switch confusion
Yes, not so much a switch as sliding contact on the selector drum that only touches when in neutral.steveloomis wrote:Neutral switch is just a switch to ground (earth) when in neutral.
To test - use an ohm meter and put one lead on the engine case and one on the outside terminal of the "switch".
Should read near zero ohms in neutral and open circuit at all other times.
To test the rest of the ciruit _ ignition on and remove the blue wire from the switch and ground the blue wire on the engine case.
The neutral light should illuminate/
"Don't worry," he said, "things could be worse ........."
So I stopped worrying and lo and behold, things did get worse!
So I stopped worrying and lo and behold, things did get worse!
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Windmill John
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Re: Neutral switch confusion
Thanks chaps, switch fitted now.
Blue wire to ground, neutral light.
But as I mentioned, whatever position the sliding button was in, there was no change in resistance reading and there was always continuity.
Ah well, more important to have continuity, as without power through the switch, bike won't start without clutch lever in.
Thanks anyway.
As the reading from the new switch is like the old one, it is always possible that the wire was crappy. It had two joins in it, probably got caught in the chain or something. I chopped them out, did an inline solder plus new connector on the switch, all good.
Blue wire to ground, neutral light.
But as I mentioned, whatever position the sliding button was in, there was no change in resistance reading and there was always continuity.
Ah well, more important to have continuity, as without power through the switch, bike won't start without clutch lever in.
Thanks anyway.
As the reading from the new switch is like the old one, it is always possible that the wire was crappy. It had two joins in it, probably got caught in the chain or something. I chopped them out, did an inline solder plus new connector on the switch, all good.