I've got two sets of forks that I'm striping, what a palaver inside the boot is it 33mm allan bolt I think, the flipen four bottom bolts just keep turning is there a way that would make the process simple to strip them down so I can have the boots powder coated,
I think one set is of the forks are bent well one leg is anyway but I want to still keep the boot.
Any help would be great
Thanks.
Ps
The last set I did this year came apart no probs
Removing the forks
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ActionManMelb
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Re: Removing the forks
Your post does not make a lot of sense!! 
By 'boot' do you mean rubber concertina boot or lower fork leg (what the axle bolts to).
By 'boot' do you mean rubber concertina boot or lower fork leg (what the axle bolts to).
"Don't worry," he said, "things could be worse ........."
So I stopped worrying and lo and behold, things did get worse!
So I stopped worrying and lo and behold, things did get worse!
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kevingrahambutler
Re: Removing the forks
Sorry 
Yes the lower fork the bolt that goes in the bottom keeps on turning to take the forks apart
Yes the lower fork the bolt that goes in the bottom keeps on turning to take the forks apart
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jibber
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Re: Removing the forks
The allen cap up in the recess, in the bottom?
Try shocking it, allen key or what ever you are using in the fixing and then knocking the handle around sharply with a mallet.
Try shocking it, allen key or what ever you are using in the fixing and then knocking the handle around sharply with a mallet.
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xtzrick
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Re: Removing the forks
Sounds like the damper unit is spinning in the fork.
If the top bolt & spring are still in place turn the fork upside down & try loosening the bottom bolt while compressing the fork.
If the spring is removed try a broom handle up the stanchion tube to hold it in place.
Rick
If the top bolt & spring are still in place turn the fork upside down & try loosening the bottom bolt while compressing the fork.
If the spring is removed try a broom handle up the stanchion tube to hold it in place.
Rick
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ActionManMelb
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Re: Removing the forks
The broom handle trick might work, but an air or electric impact gun on the lower hex socket will usually undo it.
Remove the stanchion tubes first by taking off the dust seal then the snap ring and using the stanchion like a slide hammer remove the seal and bushing in one movement.
The factory recommends an 8 or 10mm male hex (forget which) on a 350mm extension bar, lowered into the fork to hold the damper tube.
Read all about it in the workshop manual.
Remove the stanchion tubes first by taking off the dust seal then the snap ring and using the stanchion like a slide hammer remove the seal and bushing in one movement.
The factory recommends an 8 or 10mm male hex (forget which) on a 350mm extension bar, lowered into the fork to hold the damper tube.
Read all about it in the workshop manual.
"Don't worry," he said, "things could be worse ........."
So I stopped worrying and lo and behold, things did get worse!
So I stopped worrying and lo and behold, things did get worse!
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Mezo
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Re: Removing the forks
Haa i was waiting for that, that be how i did mine.ActionManMelb wrote:The broom handle trick might work
Mezo.
"A wise man makes his own decisions, an ignorant man follows public opinion"
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kevingrahambutler
Re: Removing the forks
Some sound option there, I've got an air impact driver but my compressors shit, it's a good size it just runs out of steam quick a bit like me 
I did read the manual but it give you the options if it doesn't come loose then order part no. Blar blar then part no. Blar blar.
I really need to sort my compressor out.
I did read the manual but it give you the options if it doesn't come loose then order part no. Blar blar then part no. Blar blar.
I really need to sort my compressor out.