Oil change

Cylinder head, Barrel, Gearbox, Crank
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Cabby
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Oil change

Post by Cabby »

OK folks, I seem to have a small issue.

I drained only 1200ml from the sump thinking....wtf, so I poured in another 1700ml in the frame, lo and behold, seems there is two drain plaugs, and looks like I will have over filled the thing.

My question is, I suspect it was probably only requiring 500ml, so can I just drain the 1200ml from the sump, and the rest in the frame should cover the rest...if you understand what I mean.
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Mezo
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Re: Oil change

Post by Mezo »

Im guessing your talking about your 660? its a dry sump system to technically there shouldn’t be any oil in your sump, only in your reservoir (frame).

Did you run the engine for a while before checking its level & did you check the level whilst the bike is in an upright position (not on side stand) ?

Its a common problem overfilling these bikes, ive never worked on a 660 but Rick may chime in with some better advice than me.

Mezo.
"A wise man makes his own decisions, an ignorant man follows public opinion"
Cabby
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Re: Oil change

Post by Cabby »

I had been out on it for only a few miles, checked it, nothing on the stick, ran it on idle for a bit, nothing on the stick. Drained the sump, only 1200ml, then added 1700ml, then found out there is two drain plugs, one in the sump the other in the frame.

So my plan is to drain frame oil, then sump, then refill and hopefully get things correct.
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Mezo
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Re: Oil change

Post by Mezo »

Well if your sump is filling with oil after the bike is switched off & left standing for a while it could be your one way check valve is faulty, people check their oil level & think its low because the valve has let oil pass back down into the sump.
That in itself is not a big deal but the problem arises when people then top up the oil & then its overfilled.

The first sign is a smoking engine (out the exhaust) because the engine pumps the excess oil out through the breather & in to the airbox & then its burnt in the combustion chamber & out the pipe.

Caveat: Well it does this on the 600 bikes, and im guessing there is a breather from the engine to the airbox on 660`s :scratch:

Anyhow if you ever take the clutch cover off the valve sits in the cover on both 600`s & 660`s & the part number for the 660 is 583-13113-00-00 (seat) 90501-043E0-00 (spring) the ball bearing should be fine.

This was my valve.

Image

Mezo.
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xtzrick
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Re: Oil change

Post by xtzrick »

Hi Cabby

Your engine needs to be at opporating temp when you check the oil level
Be held upright for more than 10secs while ticking over & kept upright while you turn your engine off & check your dip stick

If your bike was held upright when you checked, might be worth looking inside the filler hole with the engine running, you should be able to see spurts of oil returning to the tank
If not you have a pump problem

& don't forget to bleed the pump & filter through the bolt on top of the filter housing (I put a spare spark plug in the plug cap & rest against the engine so it won't start when I thumb the starter, makes more mess than the frame drain plug if it does start :rtfi: )

Capacities are:
Oil change 2.6ltr
Oil + filter 2.7ltr
Total oil 3.0ltr

Rick
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Re: Oil change

Post by Cabby »

Question: When dipping do you just dip it in or screw it back on then out again ??
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Re: Oil change

Post by Mezo »

Cabby wrote:Question: When dipping do you just dip it in or screw it back on then out again ??
Well i just dip it personally, and i guess the thread depth (7-8mm) and add that, but that`s just me being slack. :biggrin:

Mezo.
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xtzrick
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Re: Oil change

Post by xtzrick »

Mezo wrote:
Cabby wrote:Question: When dipping do you just dip it in or screw it back on then out again ??
Well i just dip it personally, and i guess the thread depth (7-8mm) and add that, but that`s just me being slack. :biggrin:

Mezo.
Manual says just dip don't screw

Rick
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