3AJ fairing

[Matt-Tenere]

Good evening people.What is the easiest way of removing the twin headlight fairing? It appears to have four fixings at the front as well as the four attaching it to the tank. The two lower are fine but I can't see the upper two fixings and wondered is it better to remove the clocks and plastic dash thingymabob.... I had some soldering to do and was going to remove the fairing to have a better look around before MOT'ing but it might have to wait now. Any help/feedback will be appreciated.
Matt

[Mezo]

Hey Matt,

From memory it just two on each side that go in to the tank & a single one under the headlight, you need to remove the indicators as well & then it should just come off?

I also seem to remember removing the inner black plastic dashboard surround to get more movement?

Its been a few years since ive done this but i dont think you need to remove the lights as well? if you do its four screws from the front.

Mezo.

[Matt-Tenere]

Hi Mezo,
I saw a page from the parts fiche which seems to show four mounting points at the front of the fairing.I have the indicators removed as well as the four fairing to tank bolts. It is still as solid as a rock.To get the dash off,I'm assuming the clocks come away first... There's a fairing on German ebay with photos and it seems to show the four points I suspect are holding it on.It will have to be removed at some other time now but someone out there knows,maybe one of the guys who has done a full 3AJ resto....
Cheers
Matt

[jibber]

there are four studs which come through the headlamp cage at each 'corner', two on the bottom and the two which are a lot harder to see at the top, the more access you have the better, but you may well end up doing it by feel anyways

[Matt-Tenere]

Hi jibber,the two bottom nuts are easy enough but there doesn't seem much room for the upper two.Oh and the bottom right is bollixed anyway.A repair for a future date
and I might see to modifying it some way, to make it less hassle.Perhaps making the dash removable without taking off the clocks.. We shall see.
Thanks muchly
Matt

[ferzz]

The four screws connecting tank and front-fairing are clear. Careful when scewing them back, not to use screws that are to long. If not you drill a nice hole in the tank. I saw this several times.

The best way to remove the four inner nuts in the corners of the headlight stay is to use a joint-socket wrench.

What you can try if the nuts are rusty, open the 2 nuts on the right side connecting the headlight stay with the headtube.
Then you can remove the bolt headshild on the left side. Afterwards you may turn fairing and stay over. Now you have got enough space.

Use some grease before closing those nuts only hand-tight. There is no need for more torque.

[Matt-Tenere]

Good point Boris,I had a mid eighties KTM bike which used metal screws for the rad cover to tank mounting.First time I removed one of them,petrol poured out like a tap. A previous owner had used a screw 10mm too long.Mind you,it was a plastic tank and before they started using brass threaded inserts.It was never a clever design.Ta muchly for the feedback.
Matt

[simontb_denmark]

I tried for days - feeling my way. I can't remember exactly how I made it - but I remember it was almost impossible to do just by feeling with your fingers...

I think I removed the tank - and then it was very easy. But i'm not completely sure - But if you're still having trouble I would try to remove the tank (very easy): remove the seat (2 bolts), remove screws on outer fairing (4 screws outside), remove tank (2 bolts + disconnect fuel on both side) - then you should have better acces, if I remember correct

[viper1]

It´s a lot easier if you remove the tank. Then you are actually able so see the the 2 nuts on the top of the inside of the faring.

[_Raul_]

You take the saddle off. Then the gas tank from the frame and the fairing.
Three of the fairing`s screws are easy to be unscrewed - the 2 ones at the bottom + the one on the right upper side.
For the one on the upper left side - easiest way is to (half) take off the choke cable.
It`s a plastic screw, 17, beneath the black plastic that is the base of the dashboard. Unscrew it and lift the choke cable button assembly.
It will be much easier to make your way with a long, articulated, tubular socket.