Aussiesven wrote:Then all I need is the front mud guard and hand guards (believe both are still available through Yamaha?

Rudi has them in stock (check vendors section) at least compare his prices with local Yammy guys, and stripping the tank,
i just used normal old paint stripper, worked very well.





Mezo.

I grabbed a rear wheel and checked the measurements for you.

Use a straight edge and a vernier caliper ( no excuse not to have a vernier, they come on special at ALDI for $19.99)

Brake side is 23.88 mm and drive side is 46.65 mm. That is after subtracting the thickness of the straight edge.

Interesting... so not centre of the hub at all..!?

What about the front wheel? Is that dead centre, or also offset to the hub?

Sven

Aussiesven wrote:Interesting... so not centre of the hub at all..!?

What about the front wheel? Is that dead centre, or also offset to the hub?

Sven

I don't think the hub is offset, I think Dave is just giving you the measurements for each side.... I think the difference is there because the drive side sticks out further than the brake side, I'm sure that the hub is central..... as is the front one....

Geoff you have got it!

The flange for the cush drive is 20 or so mm wider than the brake. The rim sits midway between the spoke flanges.
What I showed is the best way to check before and after spoking.

Got it now... let's see how it goes. Have a few days over Easter to have a crack at it. Thanks for the quick replies everyone.

Sven

Started on assembly of the bike... how exciting! Love that all is new or refurbished and shiny - will post some photos soon.

Started on the wheels respoking as well and did the back wheel first - went like a dream! Looks great, was able to true the rim to within a millimeter, looks great.

Then did the front wheel and somehow hit a problem. The spokes came in two bags... but they look VERY similar. They seem to be the same length and the angle of the head also seems the same... maybe one is half a millimeter longer, but not sure. Started lacing and tightening them and some seem to be "too long" - have stuck to the "every fourth hole" logic of the back wheel, which worked well and appeared idiot proof... but now the off one sticks out of the rim by a centimeter or so, so must have made a mistake somewhere in the lace up... unless I was sent the wrong spokes?

Can anyone help: Are all 36 spokes the same or are they supposed to be significantly different (like the back wheel)? If the same, it shouldn't matter whether they go into the inner or outer holes of the hub..?

Will have another go next weekend. Must have stuffed up somewhere...

Sven

Spokes:

Hi Sven,

My spoke set 34L 25104 00 are in 2 packets, appear all same length, but head ends are subtly different.

I don't have a picture so a thousand words will have to do

Have not taken the wheel to pieces yet so speculate as follows: there are 2 different pitch circle diameters where the heads go into the hub. The thickness of the hub material must be different to account for the head difference. Thereafter assembly is just geometry.

Viewed from rhs, spokes on brake disc side of hub; inner smaller pitch circle holes, spokes radiate out angled forward. Outer pitch circle radiate out angled backward. Mirror for opposite side. Inner spokes angle backward, outer backward.

Rim hole angle dictate spoke source.

Capiche?

p

The disc side of the rim is apparently different and should be marked as such before de-spoking. I did not know this until the guy that laced my wheel told me to mark which side the disc is on in the future as he had started and had to pull it apart and flip it around.
Regards Eric

Well, all engine parts painted and ready for assembly. The last order from boats.net with most of the engine seals has just left... so should be here within days (weeks?). The paint has cured well and the parts look great.





Also completed the assembly of the forks. All went well until I installed the dust seals... and realised boats sent 34F ones - which are smaller and don't fit the fork legs. So had to reuse the old 34L ones, which worked OK - they were still in good condition and should seal all right.

Wrong seals:



Correct seal on the left:



Forks assembled and ready for installation into the newly painted frame.



With the nice black triple clamp, refurbished bolts and small parts... it is looking good:



Swing arm ready to go as well. All bearings and wear parts fit well...





After rooting around with g-clamps to compress the spring, I went to Fulcrum to do the job safely and faster - and without scratching the spring paint. It took him 2 minutes on some electric compressor - doh! Too easy.



Just picked up the new front mud guard as well as new piston rings and gasket kit from the local dealer - first time I own an original mud guard! Always wanted one, never liked the aftermarket Acerbis one...

Next onto the wheels... started with the rear wheel and it went really well. The spokes fit well, and after finding the first correctly angled hole in the rim it becomes easy: Follow the "every fourth hole" logic and the wheel is done in no time. Had a 4mm wobble in it for startes, but after a few adjustments it is now less than 1mm, which is fine!





Home made truing stand does the job...



Now I just got the get the front wheel right - the first attempt went a bit pear shaped, so have another go tomorrow.

Well, it is coming together... fantastic!