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Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Wed Jun 13, 2012 12:00 am
by Mezo
Dirtybrit wrote:I think the chinese measure them with their dicks, and because they are not as well endowed as us guys, they are smaller! :lol:
"haaa haaa, velly funny Mr Brit" :chinese:

"Next time you come to Shitty Wok we make you special stir fry"

Mezo.

Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 8:29 am
by scottieh
Been busy. Time for some pretty pictures. Got the engine slapped back together and cleaned up for painting
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Had to keep track of all these little guys. Rubber spacers between the fins to reduce vibration I suppose?
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And this is what it looks like after it's had its makeup on!
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Not too shabby. Joel did the work while I was on holiday in the desert
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I'm keeping the inspection caps silver
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And then to make this bike like most others rebuilt through this forum, I've decided to shave down the fins! Slick!
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There's a lot of work that goes into shaving down these fins. Ran through a few Dremel tips to do it, and it took about two hours, but it's definitely worth it
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And just like that it's back in the frame!
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Looks nice
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And then came the ultimate test. Starting it!
[youtube]UWwKn53Bumo[/youtube]

In short, it passed. It ran, idled okay (without an airbox), and shifted through all the gears properly. We did discover a small oil leak coming up from the right hand side case where the filter bolt goes through the case cover into the crank, which was due to the stripped out thread that's been a bane of my existence for over a year. Well, we finally took care of that today when we got a thread insert that goes into a larger hole you drill out and tap, and then screw it in and lock it in place. They're really nifty and they are much better and more permanent alternatives to helicoil inserts. We drilled out the M6 hole to around 10mm and then tapped it to M10 1.25.
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The Keensert screws into the thread and those little tabs get punched down and deform the thread inside the case ensuring they'll not back out. Then the stock M6 1.00 bolt will screw right back into it, no fuss, no muss. :star: It took all day to figure out that's what we needed but once Joel saw it at the bolt store he said "Oh! That's it!" and we got everything needed. So we put it in and it tightened down like a real case should. We spent the rest of the day detailing the frame and tomorrow we paint. After that it's just a matter of painting the tank and plastics, waiting for a few extra parts for the swingarm, and total reassembly. This thing is really close to being done. Nearly all mechanical work is complete, and now it's all cosmetics. :biggrin: So close.

Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 2:16 pm
by Dirtybrit
:dance: Looking good Scottie! :nordie:

Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Thu Jun 14, 2012 11:09 pm
by Mezo
Nice one lads, Joel i did see you had used a fair amount of sealant on that rocker cover, you only need the thinnest of smears on there, if the excess inside comes away it will clog your oil ways (little rubber worms) as how some described it.

I made this mistake on my 3AJ, before i fired it up i had talked with Danny & he said it wasn't worth the risk so we decided to take it off & see if id managed to block anything. and yep sure enough on the tacho drive side the excess sealant had squeezed in to the cam journal & had blocked the hole allowing oil to go through the cam.

When i re done the thing (big sigh) using the thinnest of smears this time, i opened the frock rocker inspection cover (where you set your tappets) to see if oil was coming through & yes it puked out on to the floor & all down the engine, but at least i knew oil was getting up to the top of the engine.

You don't need to run the engine, just turn it over on the starter & see if your getting plenty of oil up there.

Mezo.

Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:46 am
by Mezo
Here Scottie, a used Clymer maual for your bike (not Tenere but same thing).

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Mezo.

Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:48 am
by scottieh
Thanks Mez.

I have a favor to ask the forum. I need the side panel graphics for the 3AJ and short of buying the Ebay set for $150, I don't know if they exist freely on the web yet. Can somebody out there with a 3AJ and proper decals take a picture with some measurements or trace the decal with some tracing paper, scan it with a ruler, and send it to me for me to make into an Illustrator file and then a PDF for a printer? I have the tank graphics thanks to the forum, but these side panels are elusive. I am handy with Photoshop and Illustrator and can recreate the decal with the aid of some careful measurements and someone who can provide the reference. :tenere:

Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:15 am
by Mezo
I will see if i can get the side graphics template i had done, technically i paid the graphic artist to make these so i should own them?

Mezo.

Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:19 pm
by ActionManMelb
ActionManMelb wrote:
Would an impact wrench on an air compressor be a good idea?
No, that would be a VERY bad idea.
You risk damaging, mushrooming and bending the fairly soft threaded end of the crankshaft. See Geoff's pictures above.

I would get a piece of hex bar about 19mm across the flats and 30mm long. Drill and tap one end to fit the crank thread. Use a center drill on the other end to make a countersunk hole to take the load of the puller. Screw this tool onto the crank firmly. It will protect the thread completely and you can use more force with the puller.



I took the time today in the workshop to machine up the crank thread protector I spoke of in this earlier post.

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Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:31 pm
by scottieh
ActionManMelb wrote: I took the time today in the workshop to machine up the crank thread protector I spoke of in this earlier post.

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Those are some very sexy pictures, knowing what kind of time and effort that would have saved. In the future I must spend more time in the machine shop.

The bike is almost done. I've been detailing all the dirty points on the bike and trying to fit my fat grubby fingers down into spaces between the frame to get all the grime out. I didn't do a full frame off because, in the words of Joel, he was afraid the wiring wouldn't go back together and work if taken apart. We all fear something, and electrical seems to be a big one.

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I got new sprockets, chain, and front disk brake. The brake was only $80 and it's a perfect fit. I think it's ugly as heck but whatever. The yellow disk brake guard will make it pretty again.
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I went to a shop looking for fuel hose and I saw this cool thing
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And this cool thing! Haven't seen one of these in a while.
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So now all that needs to be done is to have the tank and plastics painted, stickered and coated and I STILL don't know where to get stickers made. Bloody hell. I'm tempted to simply buy this expensive thing and be done with it. The cost makes me shudder, but at this point I am out of choices.
http://global.ebay.com/YAMAHA-TENERE-3A ... 51250/item

The bike's run a few times and the right side of the cylinder gets very very hot very quickly. Joel's gonna pop the head cover off again and check to make sure nothing is blocking the oil passageway, ala the advice of Mezo. Beyond that, any ideas as to why the cylinder could be getting so very hot. It was starting to melt those little rubber guys that sit between the fins on the engine. We turned off the bike before it stayed so hot for long, but it's worrying me.

Re: Scott's 3AJ restore

Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:49 pm
by Mezo
Like i said you can pop a rocker inspection cover off (exhaust side) and see if there's oil pumping to the top, it should gush out all over the floor when its working right.

Ive had no response back from the guy with the side panel graphic template? not even sure if he`s still in business? when he was doing min he was getting divorced & the missus wanted half of everything (including his print shop) so ermm.

Mezo.