1VJ passed out?!

[Mezo]

My mistake your are the only Finn on the forum

Mezo.

[Jokkis]

My mistake your are the only Finn on the forum

Mezo.

I'm trying to ask one 1VJ owner here close by, that would he agree to give up cdi unit for a moment

[steveloomis]

It is best to check the CDI output using the AC volt scale. You should see a sizable voltage spike. More than 12 volts. Since the CDI uses power generated by the stator and not the battery 12volts is not what you expect to see. I do not know exactly what voltage you will see since it is a fast rising pulse from the CDI to the coil. If you looked at it with an oscilloscope and could see the wave form you would see greater than 100 volts, probably closer to 170 volts. If you cannot get more than .5 volts AC then the CDI is probably defective.

Look at zeeltronic.com. They make a microprocessor controlled CDI replacement for 130 euros plus shipping from Slovenia. It has a 2 year warranty. Model is PCDI-XT. They are programmable but will come pre programmed for you so you do not need to purchase a programmer. I have one and like it, myself and others have reported more power from the XT using this CDI. A guy on this and other forums is going to test the HPI, the Zeeltronic and others plus the OEM on a dyno to see which makes more power or if no difference. I feel certain he will be able to see a difference using the Zeeltronic unit. My Butt Dyno tells me he will as I have swapped back and forth the Zeel with the Hyperpak from New Zealand and could really feel the difference in power. I look forward to his tests...

Go to http://www.zeeltronic.com and send message to Borut the owner, he will respond quickly with costs and shipping to you. Include your address and bike model.

Steve

[Jokkis]

I can not understand .. Today I went to another 1VJ owner's house to try the cdi unit and put it onto his bike and alakazaam IT WORKS! I went home and I started to re-try the ignition coil. I gave the ignition coil power directly from the battery plug in patches stick against the machine, but did not give any spark, so likely to be broken? I measured the power that started coming onto ingnition coil orange wire and it gave about 4.5 volts, so is it too low? Ground is a constant to the ignition coil and the power is interrupted. In my opinion, the ignition coil will usually continuous power and grounding is interrupted? A lot to think about on, but I hope someone picks up something about this problem. I do not dare even think of the stator or pick up coil?!?

- JONI

[Jokkis]

Hello again!
I think I found the bug! I do not know if very many people familiar with regulator and stator resistance measurement, but if I understand correctly then the stator is measured at three points between which the resistance should be about 0.5 ohms, but I have a 100 to 200 ohms!
And the regulator is measured in such a way that when you put a plus to plus and 3 tested negative diode bridge connection at the regulator, should not be contact and the same is done minus the diode bridge and the connection should not be.
This was as it should, but when measured by reverse minus to plus between diode bridges at the regulator should be connected to 0.5 ohm - 0 resistance. Here I had a resistance of about 600 ohms!
So it seems that the regulator and the stator is broken?!?! How is this possible, and yet at the same time, or is there something that could mislead .. It seems like that some power surge had struck and destroyed the stator, regulator and the ignition coil!
IM SO F****** PEEVED!

[steveloomis]

1. the regulator has NOTHING to do with the CDI. The stator has two parts, one for the CDI and one for the regulator.
2. The RED and Brown wires going to the stator are the CDI charging coils and should measure 200 ohms +- 20% at 29 degrees C.
3. The Pickup coil is in two parts Between the Green and white/red and the green to the white/green. Each part should read 110 ohms +- 18% at 29 degrees C
4. Coil should read .3 ohms between the orange and coil frame and 4300 ohms from the spark plug wire (not the spark plug cap) to coil frame. The cap is about 10000 ohms or so.

It is good that you tested your CDI on another bike. I suspect you will find a broken wire using the above ohm readings. Make sure you have disconnected all connections before measuring ohms and make sure power is off.

5. With a AC volt meter you can check the above points while kicking. You should see a good upscale volt reading when you kick. Again, have the wires unplugged from the bike.

6. The charging coils are the 2 white wires. With them unplugged they should measure .4 ohms +- 50% at 29 degrees C.

When you are checking the ohms use a scale that is as close to the measured reading should be to get the best resolution, same with voltages. When measuring the AC volts I would use a range of 100 volts or so as there will be a good amount of AC volts generated when you kick hard. This is easier if you remove the spark plug.

Let me know how your reading turn out.

Steve

[Jokkis]

Thanks for tips Steve!

Here they are.

1. I measured the red and brown wires cdi charging coil and there was 135,5 ohms and at the same spot i have measure power that goes to cdi, wires unplugged. Charge when kick strarted was here like 6,2 volts .
and i allso checked what voltage comes through orange wire from cdi box when kicking and it was allmost nothing like 0.09V
2. I measures the pickup coil Green to white/red and green to white/green and both was around 110 ohms
3. I measures coil between the orange and coil frame and it was 0,5 ohms. At the bottom of coil where wire is plugged i measured without wire 4500 ohms and with wire 6200 ohms and with plug i should be around 11000 ohm. With 5K plug cap.
4. i measure charging coils to regulator unplugged and btw there was three white wires and one red. here i try to draw how the ohms was between those three!

--W.3 --- W.2--
[_____] [_____]
[_____] [_____]
--RED --- W.1--

Between white.1 and white.2 there was 1.3 ohms and between white.1/white.2 to white three there was like 12.5 ohms
At the same place i measures every white when kicking and there was outcomming 16.6V each!

Temperature outside around 10 C* where i was measuring.

-Joni

[steveloomis]

I looked back at earlier posts here and see yours is an 80's model but has electric start. I do not have a wiring diagram for that model so my wiring info is not correct for your bike. The 3 white wires are just 3 phase AC power for the rectifier/regulator module. You have more charging power since you have to charge a battery for starting. Mine is kick only and only has 2 white wires.

If someone can point out a wiring diagram I can download, I'll do it and look it over, it would be good to have a specification table as well, heck the whole manual in PDF would be great!!!! anyone have one or can point it out to me?

Steve

[Mezo]

Ive sent him the 3AJ colour wiring diagram Steve from our collection, its the closest to a 1VJ.

Mezo.

[steveloomis]

The 135 ohms on the CDI charge coils is probably OK, still I'd like to see a specification table and wiring diagram to match your bike.

(Edit 135 ohms is OK , I still have to look over the manual and diagram Mezo told me about.)

Have you pulled your stator cover to look at the wiring? Others have found bad connections in there and fixed their no spark problem by resoldering the connection. You will have to deal with the oil in there, usually lay the bike over on its side to keep from having to drain the oil. You also may need a new stator cover gasket if it tears when you remove it, just be very careful and hopefully you can reuse the gasket.

Check over each wire connection, look for any coils that may be black from overheating, a sure sign of problems.

Let me know what you find...

Steve