3AJ clutch issue maybe??

[jibber]

Nope..............old................

[Mezo]

Nope..............old................

Just found the ad Geoff posted MOTAD. funny if its the same pipe.

Mezo.

[jibber]

I still don't remember it , but he says it was a one off so prob is the same one ..... 2 into 2 with no collector, pretty unique.....

[Peen]

Yep, thats the one, not sure its a one off, his looks to have a few dents in places mine doesn't and as far as I know, this bike has been sat for a long time and cant think someone would have put that exhaust on it recently, but you never know.

MOTAD stainless 2 into 2. Weighs an absolute ton and is very quiet.

Also, it was made for the older model with the drum brake and no oil line to to gear box from the clutch casing, so the brake caliper bottoms out on it pretty easily and the bottom downpipe sits hard against the oil line which is always a good idea, so it is being replaced with an stainless Arrow exhaust and stainless 2 into 1 downpipe.

So... if anyone is interested, there's a stainless exhaust in decent nick going.

[Doubleyoupee]

Hi Peen.

Did you mention to find cause of this problem?

It just so happens my rebuild XT600Z 3AJ has the same problem after complete rebuild.
It came with two used clutches, so there's a change I simply put in the worn one (I measured and both were similar).

It's very hard to put into neutral. From 1st to neutral is impossible, lever won't even move.
From 2nd to neutral is hit or miss really.

Also, clutch slips at full power.

[Peen]

Hi Doubleyoupee,

I replaced the clutch plates and this seemed to greatly improve things, I can now change gear normally. Although, it is still a bit difficult to put into neutral from 1st, more so when hot. I have just come to accept this as it is fairly easy to go to neutral from 2nd, and its not an uncommon thing on bikes, I have found.

It annoys me that it is like this as it shouldnt be, since my newer (and much higher mileage) xt600e doesnt have this problem, but its isnt really a problem to use.

Im guessing I havent really solved the problem, just mitigated the effects, the clutch still sort of seizes when left overnight and has to break free when you first put it in gear with a big clunk which doesnt feel very good. Did this with the old plates and new.

I thought perhaps the plates had swollen or something from being sat for so long, maybe...maybe not, but its a lot nicer to change gear now with new plates.

Sounds like yours are worn if its slipping. Did you set the lock nut adjuster thing on the clutch hub properly? Might have some effect on it.

Probably given you more questions than answers, but there you go.

Thanks

Peen

[Doubleyoupee]

Hi Doubleyoupee,

I replaced the clutch plates and this seemed to greatly improve things, I can now change gear normally. Although, it is still a bit difficult to put into neutral from 1st, more so when hot. I have just come to accept this as it is fairly easy to go to neutral from 2nd, and its not an uncommon thing on bikes, I have found.

It annoys me that it is like this as it shouldnt be, since my newer (and much higher mileage) xt600e doesnt have this problem, but its isnt really a problem to use.

Im guessing I havent really solved the problem, just mitigated the effects, the clutch still sort of seizes when left overnight and has to break free when you first put it in gear with a big clunk which doesnt feel very good. Did this with the old plates and new.

I thought perhaps the plates had swollen or something from being sat for so long, maybe...maybe not, but its a lot nicer to change gear now with new plates.

Sounds like yours are worn if its slipping. Did you set the lock nut adjuster thing on the clutch hub properly? Might have some effect on it.

Probably given you more questions than answers, but there you go.

Thanks

Peen

Did you just replace the clutch plates or also the steel plates in between?

Yes, I turned the adjuster until the marker was arrow on the pushrod was aligned with the market on the crankcase.

[Peen]

Just the friction plates.

And do you mean the lock nut and adjusting screw thing on the front of the clutch pressure plate? If I remember right, you're meant to turn it in until it hits the push rod that runs through the input shaft and then turn it out a quarter turn so there is a bit of free play, or something like that. It will be in a manual somewhere. I hope im not thinking of a different engine...
I didnt adjust it when I did mine as it felt fine, but probably should have done.
Not sure if it will have any effect on your/our issue though.

[Doubleyoupee]

Just the friction plates.

And do you mean the lock nut and adjusting screw thing on the front of the clutch pressure plate? If I remember right, you're meant to turn it in until it hits the push rod that runs through the input shaft and then turn it out a quarter turn so there is a bit of free play, or something like that. It will be in a manual somewhere. I hope im not thinking of a different engine...
I didnt adjust it when I did mine as it felt fine, but probably should have done.
Not sure if it will have any effect on your/our issue though.

This is what it says in my manual:



So that's what I did. I had to turn the screw quite a bit inwards for the marker te be aligned.
It would make more sense to do what you said, so the plates are not being pushed at all, but I just did what the manual says?
Am I missing something?

edit: not my pic, but basically I turned in the adjuster screw until it was like this:"

[dzl]

Hi Doubleyoupee....so you have been for a ride on the bike? Presume you have couple mm freeplay at clutch lever freeplay? I would re check the adjust screw for clutch push rod and yes back it off 1/4 turn to allow for expansion when engine gets hot. Do you have the correct clutch perch and lever? I have had an aftermarket clutch lever that didnt allow the cable to pull as much as it should do, causing clutch to not fully disengage and causing clunking/ hard shifting. Replaced clutch lever with OEM which had different bend, allowing more cable pull and fixed it. Did you check your clutch spring length also before installing and are within spec?

Something I have also come across that caused difficult operation of gear lever after engine rebuild, is if the mounting bolt for the stopper lever for the shift drum has been over tightened. If it has it will cause the stopper lever to bind and cause stiff gear lever operation and gets even stiffer the hotter the engine gets. Needs to be torqued correctly to 10nm only.